Monday, June 3, 2024

Trekking the Camino Days 21-22 (Portomarin to Palas de Rei to Arzúa)

Whew! Over 20 miles today. All of them planned! 

The last two days have been kind of uneventful, but here they are nonetheless--and let's be honest, after the Bed-Bug-Fiasco-of-2024, uneventful days are sometimes welcomed!

Day 21 6/2 - Portomarin to Palas de Rei (13.26 miles)

Happy birthday, Mama G!

Thanks, students, for wishing. my mom a happy birthday :)

Jeff and I left around 8:15ish and were blown away by the number of peregrinos on the trail. A lot of folks start their pilgrimage from Sarria and walk 5-6 days to Santiago. We noticed that more folks were hiking with day packs (or nothing at all), suggesting that a lot of folks use bag transport services for this stretch--and hey, I'm not one to point fingers. While I'm still carrying a backpack and most of my items, I've transported my laptop and a few other non-essential items most days on the trail. I'm sorry for disappointing you Gail :) --you can totally judge. Speaking of which, my friend Gail just completed the full Camino--well done!! But yeah, TONS of folks on the trail. Seriously reminded me of Disney World lines and/or hiking Delicate Arch in May.

Look closely--so many peregrinos!

Another image of dozens of peregrinos along the trail

A woman was giving out free messages to peregrinos. This was mine:
"The work we do on ourselves becomes a gift to everyone else."

While the walk was somewhat uneventful, it was also very pretty. Lots of tree canopies.

And forests

Faculty enjoying a post-walk snack at the albergue

A new favorite dessert for me.
Queso fresco de cabra y dulce de membrillo (quince fruit)

Students enjoying time in the sun in Palas de Rei

Panoview of Palas de Rei

Day 22 June 3 (Palas de Rei to Arzúa) 20.47 miles

Today was also pretty uneventful, although I do want to give a shoutout to Necie, Amy and Chris for RUNNING 20.4 MILES TODAY! Well done!

Necie, Amy, and Chris after completing their 20.4 mile run!
Photo credit: Amy

And a shoutout to Ellie and Hunter for pulling off a harmless but hilarious jumpscare of Deya today
Photo credit: Deya

We had a very long walk planned for today, so Jeff and I decided on a pseudo-alpine (early) start at 6:30 to try and catch the sunrise and beat the heat. The sunrise was a little underwhelming today because it was overcast, but starting early was a *great move* because it helped us avoid the sea of peregrinos we ran into yesterday and it allowed us to bag a bunch of miles before the heat set in. Once again, not too much to report. Here's a bunch of shots from along today's walk:

Image along the Camino between Palas de Rei to Arzúa

Image along the Camino between Palas de Rei to Arzúa

Image along the Camino between Palas de Rei to Arzúa

This was the first of our three stops along today's walk.
Jeff and I both agreed that this random cafe wins "Best Breakfast Along the Camino."

Proof that Jeff is talented

Entering Melide, which is about 12 miles into our 20 mile trek.
Melide is known for its octopus dishes

Entering Melide

A few students caught up to us in Melide while Jeff and I were having ice cream (second stop)
Theo, Max, Madeline (and Sophie was inside!)

Cafe de Pota (squid) ice cream and a lemon soda
Apparently Cafe de Pota is a Galician specialty.
I don't know what made it squiddy--maybe ink? Maybe nothing?

Walking from Melide to Arzúa

Walking from Melide to Arzúa

Daily Kelfie/Keletubbie

View overlooking Ribadiso, the town before Arzúa.

Jeff and I got in around 3PM feeling tired but accomplished. Some students and some Deyas elected to take a cab or bus from Melide, but pretty much everyone was in by 5PM and seemed to be in good spirits. We had dinner (paella) at El Encontro. I had a fantastic conversation with the students at my table and we got to celebrate Clara for getting a full-time job offer (teacher) this week! Congrats!

Happy times at dinner--food and memories to savor!

With that, we are down to our final two days of walking.

If you're keeping track:
  1. 5/17 - 14m
  2. 5/18 - 13.5m
  3. 5/19 - 5.1m
  4. 5/20 - 17.5m
  5. 5/21 - 0.0m
  6. 5/22 - 12m
  7. 5/23 - 16.5m
  8. 5/24 - 2.8m
  9. 5/25 - 9.8m
  10. 5/26 - 10.6m
  11. 5/27 -14.2m
  12. 5/28 - 14.6m
  13. 5/29 - 11.6m
  14. 5/30 - 5.9m
  15. 5/31 - 18.5m
  16. 6/1 - 11.8m
  17. 6/2 - 13.3m
  18. 6/3 - 20.4m
212.1 miles so far. Average of 11.8 miles per day. Our last two walks will be about 12 each day, so when all is said and done, we should be at around 236 miles total for our pilgrimage!

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