One of the structures (a hand) at the lookout point
Folks relaxing on the lookout nets
After breakfast, we had about a 3 hour drive from Phetchabun to Sukhothai. Sukhothai is a UNESCO World Heritage site. From UNESCO (link):
“Sukhothai was the political and administrative capital of the first Kingdom of Siam in the 13th and 15th centuries. Si Satchanalai was the spiritual center of the kingdom and the site of numerous temples and Buddhist monasteries. Si Satchanalai was also the centre of the all-important ceramic export industry. The third town, Kamphaeng Phet, was located at the kingdom’s southern frontier and had important military functions in protecting the kingdom from foreign intruders as well as providing security for the kingdom’s extensive trading network. All three towns shared a common infrastructure to control water resources, and were linked by a major highway known as the Thanon Phra Ruang after the king who constructed it".
Sukhothai is, from what I understand, the birthplace of modern Thai culture and the oldest city in Thailand. Known for its innovation in art and architecture, Sukhothai is also credited with being a major innovator of hydraulic engineering.
Our first stop in Sukhothai (after our resort, Le Charme) was one of Han’s favorite restaurant stops, Baan Na Rice Noodle, where our entire table ordered Sukhothai noodles (and some ordered double bowls!). This noodle bowl had the look of Pho, but a much more peanut-y/Thai basil taste and aroma. It felt like the Thai equivalent of a local Mom and Pop restaurant.
“Sukhothai was the political and administrative capital of the first Kingdom of Siam in the 13th and 15th centuries. Si Satchanalai was the spiritual center of the kingdom and the site of numerous temples and Buddhist monasteries. Si Satchanalai was also the centre of the all-important ceramic export industry. The third town, Kamphaeng Phet, was located at the kingdom’s southern frontier and had important military functions in protecting the kingdom from foreign intruders as well as providing security for the kingdom’s extensive trading network. All three towns shared a common infrastructure to control water resources, and were linked by a major highway known as the Thanon Phra Ruang after the king who constructed it".
Sukhothai is, from what I understand, the birthplace of modern Thai culture and the oldest city in Thailand. Known for its innovation in art and architecture, Sukhothai is also credited with being a major innovator of hydraulic engineering.
Our first stop in Sukhothai (after our resort, Le Charme) was one of Han’s favorite restaurant stops, Baan Na Rice Noodle, where our entire table ordered Sukhothai noodles (and some ordered double bowls!). This noodle bowl had the look of Pho, but a much more peanut-y/Thai basil taste and aroma. It felt like the Thai equivalent of a local Mom and Pop restaurant.
Sukhothai Noodles
After lunch, we visited the Wat Si Chum temple, in the northern region of the Sukhothai Historic Park.
This 13th century temple is known for its roofless mondop building, in which a large Buddha structure is housed (and can partially be seen from the outside). This Buddha is named Phra Achana, which translates into “he who is not frightened.” This statue is the largest Buddha in Sukhothai, 15 meters high and 11 meters wide.
We’re back at the hotel now for some free time. I’m getting my first Thai massage tonight, and I get super bad massage anxiety (imagine Liz Lemon going to a massage parlor…), so wish me luck and hope that I don’t embarrass myself.
This 13th century temple is known for its roofless mondop building, in which a large Buddha structure is housed (and can partially be seen from the outside). This Buddha is named Phra Achana, which translates into “he who is not frightened.” This statue is the largest Buddha in Sukhothai, 15 meters high and 11 meters wide.
The group in front of Wat Si Chum
Kathryn discussing Buddhism with students
The Buddha Phra Achana (inside the mondop)
The viharn (or assembly hall) in front of the mondop
We’re back at the hotel now for some free time. I’m getting my first Thai massage tonight, and I get super bad massage anxiety (imagine Liz Lemon going to a massage parlor…), so wish me luck and hope that I don’t embarrass myself.
[several hours later...]
First Thai massage in the books! It was great, although I'm pretty sure my masseuse felt like she was massaging a corpse with rigor mortis because I was so awkward and tense (ha!).
Something I wanted to mention (if I haven't done so already) is that a major defining factor of this trip is the felt impact of COVID-19 on Thailand's tourism industry. It's hard to get a firm number (I've seen anywhere from 5% to 20%), but it would appear that tourism accounts for between 10% (2013) to 17% (2016) of Thailand's economy (World Travel and Tourism Council). Tourism is a significant part of the country's economy, and prior to COVID-19, the industry was experiencing a consistent and rapid increase.
Since we arrived, we have frequently been the only groups staying at resorts, eating at restaurants, etc. Based on Han's observations, there are way fewer people at the sites we are visiting this year. Things still feel pretty locked down, and most resorts seem to be operating with a skeleton crew. I hope tourism is able to return to Thailand in ways that are safe and sustainable.
Okay, more on Sukhothai tomorrow.
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