Saturday, June 4, 2022

Thailand Day 26: Last day / Bangkok

I started my morning off with a solo-run at Benchakitti Park followed by a self-haircut in my hotel bathroom with my first aid kit sheers. Mom (who is a retired hairdresser), I look forward to you fixing my train-wreck-of-a-hair-cut when you visit this summer :)

After breakfast, the 16 of us (15 students and me) heading back to the U.S.A. tomorrow (June 5) were taken by Noi and the drivers to a hospital about 30 minutes out of Bangkok for our official CDC-required Covid test and documentation. Nothing says “grand finale of a month-long study abroad trip” like a group field trip to a hospital for a pre-departure Covid test :\

Noi and the hospital staff made the process of registration, payment, and testing as smooth as possible with such a large group. Thanks, Noi! Now, we eagerly wait our results--think negative thoughts on our behalf.

When we returned to the hotel, a small group of students and faculty boarded the Bangkok sky train to visit the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (link), which ended up being another top 5 trip highlight for me. The BACC is a contemporary art museum (and free admission!). 

Bangkok Art and Culture Center (BACC)

View from the top floor of the Centre

In addition to other, smaller installations, the main exhibitions currently on display were (Information from BACC website):

  • CROSSOVER II: The Nature of RelationshipsThis exhibition discusses a triangle of relationships between Art – Artist – Environment through the research of Thai modern art in a transitional period - from 1945, at the end of World War II, to 2000, the year of the Tom Yum Kung financial crisis (before Thailand entered the state of the contemporary phenomena)...[the exhibition] is curated and present[s] artworks in the art collection of organizations and private collections that connects with an environmental issue, urban, challenging situations, impression in various angles during different periods of Thai history. With more than 70 works, the exhibition is categorized these visual phenomena into six distinct groups: Scenery, Site of Beliefs, A Part of Mind, Surrealism, The Nature in Abstraction, and Social Criticism.
(I really blew it and forgot to take a picture of the caption to give credit to the artist--I'm sorry!)

(I really blew it and forgot to take a picture of the caption to give credit to the artist--I'm sorry!)
  • TAWEE RATCHANEEKORN, 1960 – 2022 : A Retrospective ExhibitionFeaturing over 60 paintings, sculptures, and mixed media works, the retrospective exhibition showcases the life’s work of Tawee Ratchaneekorn, Thailand’s 2005 National Artist in Visual Arts (painting). At the age of 88, Tawee continues to capture contemporary social issues and synthesize them into compelling oeuvres, each an autobiography and a record of Thai historical events. As a “social animal:, Tawee Ratchaneekorn does not only observe his surroundings but also soaks up everything that happened in his life, shaping him into the person he is today. Instead of enjoying a peaceful retired life, he continues to wield his paint brush with his signature bold and steady strokes, creating soulful pieces of art. Tawee Ratchaneekorn’s works, always a commentary on Thailand’s major historical events, mirror his unwavering principles and uncompromising courage to express them. His aim was not to produce art that changes the world nor to display his greatness. Rather, his oeuvres emanate a passionate sincerity that is unmistakably Tawee Ratchaneekorn’s.
Forgot to take picture of title of work--sorry!

Forgot to take picture of title of work--sorry!

Forgot to take picture of title of work--sorry!
  • The 11th White Elephant Art Award Exhibition “Endless Giving”: The 11th White Elephant Art Award Exhibition themed “Endless Giving” will bring together realistic and figurative art pieces to celebrate Thailand’s tranquillity and natural wealth, as well as the good spirit, kindness, and generosity of Thai people. Throughout the history of Thailand, the country’s independence has been safely guarded for future generations by a long line of Thai ancestors. Guided by positivity, Thai people lead a simple, peaceful, and friendly life, as reflected in the radiant sincere smiles on their faces. The exhibition comprises paintings, sculptures, prints, and mixed media of all techniques and materials to showcases these unique characteristics of Thailand.
Forgot to take picture of title/artist of work--sorry!

Forgot to take picture of title/artist of work--sorry!

Forgot to take picture of title/artist of work--sorry!

I thought the Endless Giving pieces were stunning, but I think I learned the most from the Tawee Ratchaneekorn exhibit. The artist addressed issues of power/hierarchy, land use/deforestation, patriarchy, capitalism, etc., from a Thai perspective through abstract art. 

Given that the museum was 1) free 2) easy to access via public transportation (which is also an important skill to master when traveling abroad!) 3) large enough to accommodate large groups of people 4) can be completed at a leisurely self-pace 5) contains super valuable cultural and historical context for Thailand and its people, the faculty were all in agreement that this site should probably be added to the trip itinerary as a permanent fixture. I regret that I didn't budget more time for this museum, as a person could easily spend most of a day here. The folks in the museum group kind of splintered off to to their own things on their schedule. Some students stayed at the museum longer, Kathryn and Han took another group to the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew (I'm hoping that Kathryn will do a guest post on this blog re: Wat Phra Kaew), and I set out to find an off-the-beaten-path restaurant for my last lunch.

And before y'all start thinking that I'm a "do my own thing-er," and don't invite others to join me on my food excursions, I *did* put the offer out to others and didn't have any takers!

This trip has definitely reiterated that my favorite aspect of travel is trying new foods. Some folks like museums, others prefer service, nightlife, recreation, etc., but after today, I am 100% certain I am on Travel Team: Food. I did some really quick research to see what the best places to eat in Bangkok were. My preferred establishments are kind of hole-in-the-wall places with minimal bells and whistles, not a lot of tourists (recognizing the hypocrisy in that statement...), and some good down-home cookin'. I was a little nervous that the place I selected, Pe Aor Tom Yum Kung Noodle, would be touristy and gimmicky since I found it on a food blog, but credit to Will Fly For Food (link) because this place had great food, didn't seem to cater to tourists, and had a very relaxed, no-frills atmosphere. Per the blogger's recommendation, I ordered tom yum goong (check the food blog above for a description), one of Thailand's national dishes. It came with enormous prawns that I wasn't sure how to eat (do I peel them by hand? Do I suck the gunk out of the heads?) so I just sort of went for it and it was delicious. The path to and from the restaurant took me through some really interesting local neighborhoods. It was fun to get out for an hour and explore by myself.

On my way to lunch

Tom yum kung noodles at Pe Aor

Look at the size of those prawns!

Pe Aor--what a fun lunch experience!

Tonight, the group has been invited to Noi's house for a farewell dinner. It's our last night together as a group. Tomorrow (at 4:30AM...), I will travel back with 15 of our students. Wish me luck!

(This might be my last blog post until the next international trip! I have some aspirations do to a "Thailand by the Numbers/Favorites" post, but we'll see how motivated I am after today--we do have an 8 hour layover in LAX, so maybe I'll get it done. If not, cheers until the next time!)

Thailand Days 22 - 25: Koh Samet

[Written on 6/3 1PM]

I didn’t bring my laptop to the beach, but we have another 2 hours of van time before we arrive in Bangkok, so I’m gonna see how far I can get with typing up a summary of the last 3 days on my phone…

Thailand Days 22-24: Koh Samet / Sai Kaew Resort

There isn’t a whole lot to dig into over the past three days as this portion of the trip was intended to be somewhat celebratory/relaxing as we are in the 4th and final week of the trip. After a 3ish drive from Bangkok, we arrived at the Ao Prao Pier (Ban Phe) to take a shuttle speed boat to Koh Samet, a small island that is the closest (I think) vacation destination island to the mainland. 


Traveling by boat to Koh Samet

Koh Samet

Dinner with Noi and her family on Night 2

From Wikipedia:

“Ko Samet is one of the eastern seaboard islands of Thailand. It is in the Gulf of Thailand off the coastline of the Thai province of Rayong, approximately 220 kilometres southeast of Bangkok…Popular with foreign tourists and as a weekend getaway for residents of nearby Bangkok, most of the island (excluding the Na Dan area) is in the Khao Laem Ya–Mu Ko Samet National Park. In 1981, the Royal Forest Department declared the archipelago of Samet, along with nine other small islands, the headland of Khao Laem Ya, and the 11 kilometres (6.8 mi) Mae Ramphueng Beach to be a national park, and thus Ko Samet is under the protection of the National Parks Division of the Thai government.”

This is especially worth noting as we all had to purchase national park passes to 1) actually get on the island and 2) island-hop on our snorkeling day (more on that in a second). After arriving on the island, we took Songthaews to Kai Saew resort, situated on two adjoining beachfronts on the northeast coast of Koh Samet. The resort was lovely, the amenities were nice, and the staff was welcoming. 

The first night on the island, we are as 1 large group at Ploy Talay, a restaurant that is quite popular with tourists because it features a nightly show of fire dancers. My brother, Mick, actually spins fire, so it was cool to have a little context for how folks train to spin fire. These folks were very talented (and very fit). 

Fire spinning show

Fire spinning at Ploy Talay

From this point on, it was kind of a “choose your own adventure” couple of days. Most of the resorts offered watercraft rentals, so I took out a stand-up paddle board one day and a sea kayak the following day, while other students got mani/pedis or Thai massages on the beach, explored the town of Koh Samet, relaxed and read books by the pool, and/or booked a fishing excursion. 

The last full day on the island, 20 of us chartered a boat for a day of snorkeling and island hopping. Thanks to Noi for getting us such a great deal! Snorkeling conditions weren’t great because we are in the rainy season (lowered visibility) but we still saw plenty of beautiful and interesting aquatic life, and one of the boat guides got in the water with us to point out a bunch of things we would have likely missed without the expertise of a local. 

One of the beaches from which we snorkeled

Taking a break from snorkeling

I will have to ask Noi the name of the charter company we used for future bookings—the company’s name escapes for now. I am also blanking on the three islands we stopped at as part of the tour—I would assume that they are all part of the Khao Laem Ya–Mu Ko Samet national park island chain, but none of the island names are ringing any bells.

On the whole, it seemed like students enjoyed themselves on the island and expressed appreciation for having a few beach days to unwind before the end of the trip. 

We are now on the way back to Bangkok. We will probably arrive tonight around 5pm, so folks will have a little time to explore the city. Note to self for future trips: I ordered NamTok with rice noodles at our lunch stop and it was another top 5 meal, so I’m documenting for future reference…

Nam Tok for lunch

Tomorrow is our last full/free day, and the 16 of us returning home on the 5th (12 students and 2 faculty are staying longer for individual travel) have to get Covid tested at an official testing site per U.S. CDC requirements. After we finish testing, I will offer students the option of visiting the Grand Palace complex before we go to Noi’s house for a farewell dinner. 

Update 10PM

We arrived to the hotel around 5pm. A small group of us boarded the metro to head back into Chinatown for dinner. Chinatown was packed! We split the group in two. Han took some students back to T&K Seafood, while Kathryn’s and my group opted for Nai Ek Roll Noodle, a street-side cafe. We were packed in like sardines and sort of panicked ordered a bunch of food (family-style) really quickly, and we had a ton of fun! My only regret is that I didn’t take a picture of the menu to remember what we ordered…

Dinner at Nai Ek Roll Noodle

Getting down to the final day!!